Buttonhole-machine.



No. 696,698. Patented Apr. l, 1902.- n. w. THOMSON.

BUTTUNHOLE MACHINE.

v (Application filed Jan. 20, 1892.) m Medial.) 6 sheets-sheet l.

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Patented Apr. I, I902;

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BUTTONHOLE MACHINE.

(Apphcatzon filed Jan. 20 1892) (No Model.)

Patented Apr. I, I902. n. w. THOMSON.

BUTTONHULE MACHINE.

(App1ica.tion filed Jan. 20, 1892.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 4.

(No Model.)

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No. 696,698. Patented Apr; 1; 902.

R. W. THOMSON.

BUTTONHULE MACHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 20, 1892.)

(No Model.)

6 Sheets-Sheet 5.

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No. 696,698. Patented Apr. l, I902.

R. W. THOMSON. BUTTHNHOLE mAcHmE.

(Application filed J an. 20, 1692.) (No ModeL) I 6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

Tm: mums FETERS cov PuomLm-ia, WASHINGTON, n c.

Unirrn ra i ns PATENT surest ROBERT W. THOMSON, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO REECE BUTTONHOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A

CORPORATION OF MAINE.

BUTTONHOLE h/IACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 696,698, dated April 1, 1902. Application filed January 20, 1892. Serial No. 418,670. (No model.)

To (tZZ whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, ROBERT W. THOMSON, of Lynn, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Buttonhole-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates especially to machines for overseaming in the production of buttonholes.

The machine to be herein described forms an overedge-stitch from two threads, one of which is carried by a straight reciprocating eye-pointed needle which penetrates the ma terial for the depth-stitch, the second thread being controlled by a thread-carrier or needle which passes through the slit or hole cut in the material held in a clamp and suitably stretched to expand the hole. The needle carrying the second thread and moving in the slit is shown as attached to a block mounted upon a horizontal rock-shaft having arms at its ends projectingat right angles therefrom, which arms are pivoted in substantially the horizontal plane occupied by the material during the stitch-formin g operation, whereby said needle in passing its thread through the buttonhole may travel in the same curve both above and below the material being stitched. A looper coacts with the loop of needle-thread and spreads the same in the path of the ascending under-thread carrier, and that the looper may properly perform its duty and not be interposed in the path of the ascending under-thread carrier I have mounted the shaft of the looper in a movable bearing, so that the looper as the same is having imparted to it a rotative movement is also moved bodily laterally. The clamp holding the material is mounted in a rotatable carrier sus tained in a suitable guideway, said carrier having cooperating with it suitable devices to at times restrain and at other times permit the rotation of the carrier. The carrier is rotated for more than a full rotation during the time that the stitch-forming mechanism is overstit-ching the entire edge of a buttonhole. The rotative movements of the carrier are divided into a plurality of operations,

The swinging movement of the clamp on the plate takes place while the plate and clamp are being moved longitudinally and the overstitching of the side edges of the buttonhole are being stitched near the large eye and also while the large eye at one end of the buttonhole is being stitched. The clamp is slid lon gitudinally in the carrier when the side edges of the buttonhole are being stitched by or through a cam on a ring. The ring has a camgroove that at the proper times engages dogs pivoted on the carrier and moves them to engage a-stationary part and lock the carrier,

and at other times said ring moves the dogs to release them from the part engaged by them to unlock the carrier, that it and the work-clamp may be rotated, as when the round ends of the buttonhole are to be over-stitched.

The ring has an inner heart-shaped cam, which when the carrier is restrained from. ro

tation acts upon suitable roller or other studs of the plate upon which the work or cloth clamp is pivotally n1ounted,sliding said clamp in the carrier, this being done while the straight sides of the buttonhole are being overstitched.

In the machine to be herein described the overedge-stitching is shown as started at the large end of the eye of the buttonhole and at one side of the longitudinal center of the but tonhole, and the first movement of the clamp and carrier is one of rotation, that the overedge-stitching may be made in a curved line,

said stitches meeting about the center of said 9 large eye, and a portion of the said eye having been overstitched and the stitching having arrived at what is to constitute one side of the buttonhole the further rotation of the carrier is restrained and the clamp has imparted to it a longitudinal movement, which is continued while one straight side of the buttonhole is being stitched, and duringa portion of the time of stitching the side of the buttonhole the clamp is swung laterally on the plate carrying it to provide for a wider space in a part of the buttonhole near said eye. The stitching having arrived at the small end of the buttonhole, the carrier, the rotation of which was restrained during the longitudinal movement of the clamp, is released, and immediately thereafter the carrier and clamp are related for substantially one hundred and eighty degrees, thus enabling the stitching to be carried around the small end of the buttonhole, and this done the rotation of the carrier is again arrested and the clamp is again slid in the carrier while the second side edge of the buttonhole is being stitched, the clamp also being preferably swung laterally on the plate carrying it, and the straight side having been completed the carrier is again released,and it and the clamp are again rotated,so that, overedgestitching is again made about the large eye, which was partly overstitched when starting the stitching of the buttonhole, the stitching completing the buttonhole terminating only after it has been carried for a greater or less distance to overlap the stitching made when the buttonhole was commenced. A buttonhole having been stitched by a rotation of the cloth-clamp for more than three hundred and sixty degrees,suitable devices come into operation to stop automatically the stitching mechanism and render inoperative certain feeding means which during the stitching of a buttonhole act to move the ring and the clamp, said feeding means operating at the proper times at one speed to effect a short stitch along the side edges of the buttonhole and at other times to effect a longer stitch abouttheendsof thebuttonhole. Thestitchforming mechanism having been stopped and the feed-shaft 0 having also been stopped, further movement of the ring referred to, controlling the movement of the clamp, is made at a faster speed, moving the clamp, while the stitch-forming mechanism is at rest, into the position where the material containing the stitched buttonhole is to be removed and material to be inserted in the clamp to have a buttonhole-slit cut in the same. This faster movement of the'ring and clamp is in a backward direction for but a portion of a rotation, just sufficient to return the clamp into its starting position, and on the arrival of the clamp in its starting position a device, to be described, engages a notch in the carrier, arresting the movement of the carrier and clamp, and thereby determining the exact position that the clamp shall occupywhen the material isto be removed and new material is to be applied thereto. The material having a stitched buttonhole having been removed from the clamp, the material in which another buttonhole is to be made is put into the clamp and the clamp isclosed, and thereafter the operator slides the clamp on the plate, upon which itis mounted loosely, against the stress of a suitable spring, thus putting the material held by the clamp in position over one member of a buttonhole-cutting mechanism, and the other member is then actuated to cut in the material held in the clamp the slit for the buttonhole to be made, and the clamp is then returned into starting position by the spring referred to.

The buttonhole-stitching mechanism and feeding mechanism are started automatically by the return into its inoperative position of the buttonhole-cutting devices.

The buttonhole-cutting mechanism consists, essentially, of a rising-and-falling anvil and a movable blade, the anvil rising from below against the under side of the material held in the clamp and supporting the same against the action of the cutting-blade.

I have devised a peculiar nonrotatable throat-plate and have provided means whereby it has imparted to it a vertical movement, so that the throat-plate supports the material at the stitching-point while the needle is in the material and the stitch is being formed, the said throat-plate being, however, lowered substantially from contact with or so as to free the material from friction between the throat-plate and the material during the feeding operation of the clamp. WVhen overstitching a buttonhole, the shaft foractuating the feeding mechanism for the clamp, said mechanism including a cam-ring, has imparted to it a greater movement during the formation of each stitch around the ends of the buttonhole than when the stitching is being performed along the sides of the buttonhole, and to enable the extent of this feeding motion, both at the sides of the buttonhole and about the eye or ends, to be separately controlled according to the requirements of the work to be done I have provided independent mechanism for moving the feed-shaft at these different times, one of the said mechanisms being under the control of the ring which actu ates the clamp, so that at the proper time the feeding mechanism for moving the clamp while stitching the eyes or ends of the buttonhole maybe suspended and the other mechanism be permitted to operate, and vice versa.

Figure l is a side elevation, partially broken out, of a sewing-machine embodying my invention; Fig. 2,a' detail showing the front end of the head with the adjustable gate in which the needle-bar is to be reciprocated. Fig. 3 is a detail showing the throat detached and as leading the gimp or edge cord. Fig. 4 is aplan view of the machine with the tableplate removed, the intention being to show the main working parts, which are inclosed in the base of the framework, said figure showing the cutting mechanism; Fig. 5, a detail of the cutting mechanism as it will appear when the machine is stitching a buttonhole. Fig. 6 is a top or plan view of the work-clamp,

the clamp-carrier, and the raceway in which the clamp'carrier rotates, the cap-ring of the raceway being partially broken out.

Fig. 7 is a longitudinal section of Fig. 6 in the line 00. Fig. 8 is a top or plan view immediately below the parts shown in Fig. 6, said Fig. 8 showing parts which are covered by the parts shown in Fig. 6 when themachine is in working condition. Fig. 9 is an under side view of the work-clamp carrier and work-clamp or work-holder. Fig. 10 is a top view of the lower part of the clamp or a view of ,the work-clamp below the dotted line 00', Fig. 7. Fig. 11 shows in two different views the pressure-regulator for the work-clamp; Fig. 12, a

sectional'detail in about the line a Fig. 1, looking to the right; Fig. 13, details of the devices for permitting the feed-shaft to drop and disengage the bevel-wheel carried by it from the bevel-gear or ring for actuating the feedclamp carrier and work-clamp; Fig-14, a detail referring to the operation of the throat- ,plate Fig. 15, details of the loop-spreader.

Fig. 16 shows one of the feed-wheels in section. raceway-plate C shown'in Fig. 6 turned over to the left from the position shown in said figure, the shaft g being shown as cut off to thus enable the knock-off device g to beshown as it lies between the raceway and the cap-ring. Fig. 18 is an under side view of the ring D. Fig. 19 is a detail-showing the under needle and some of its actuating mechanism. Fig. 20 is a detail in side elevation of one of the bars used in connection with thebuttonhole-cuttingmechanism. Fig. 21 is a detail showing the knock-off device and some of the parts cooperating with it. Fig. 22 is anenlarged detail showing inside elevation one of the feeding-wheels and its actuating devices. Fig. 23 is a diagram showing an out-line of a buttonhole with numbers to be referred to in the description as to the manner of stitching the same. Fig. 24 is a detail, enlarged, of the starting mechanism to start the cutter, the latter in its movements starting the stitching mechanism; and Fig.

25 is a detail showing the stop 90, to be re-v ferred to.

Referring to the drawings, A represents the lower part of the framework of the machine, it supporting an overhanging arm A and having What I shall denominate a tableplate A The overhanging arm has suitable bearings for the needle-bar-actuating shaft A provided at its front end with a crank A, which by a link A jointed to a suitable collar fast on the needle-bar A, reciprocates the said needle-bar in suitable bearings of a gate A mounted upon centers A shown as pointed screws'mounted in the overhanging arm, said gate having two screws AQA extended through anear thereof, .(see Figs. 1 and 2,) the screw A being adapted to be screwed more or less through the said ear andto contact with alug A connected to the overhanging arm, to thus determine the Fig. 17 is an under side view of the exact-position of the needle of the needlebar with relation to the throat to be described,

' stitch and insure the proper or desired length of overedge-stitch.

The shaft A has fast upon it a cam-hub A flwhich receives a roller or other stud of the take-up lever A, pivoted at A the said take-up receiving. through itseye the needlethread, supplied from some suitable source and passed through the tension device A, the thread going from the take-up in usual manner to and through the eye of the needle.

The shaft A derives its rotation from a chain A", extended over a sprocket-wheel A 1 and driven from a sprocket-wheel A, fast on the main shaft B, supported in suitable bearings in the lower part of the framework.

The shaftB hasfast upon it outside the framework a collar B, having a suitable pin or projection B to form part of a clutch,-the second part of the clutch being a' pin or projection B extended from apulleyB mounted loosely-upon the said shaft and driven substantially constantly by a suitable belt, as B driven from some suitable source of'power.

The shaft B has'upon it three suitable eccentries, two of which are embracedby eccentric-straps O 0, both alike, theeccentries' embraced by them being set a little morethan' quartering as to their-throw. Both these ec centric-straps-are adapted by like intermediate mechanisms to rotate theshaft G which is moved at two different speeds, as will be described, to actuate the feeding-mechanism at the proper speed. In Fig. 11- have omitted from the'shaft B one of these eccentrics and from the shaft 0 one of the feed-wheels, such parts being, however, shown in Fig. 4,said

parts having been omitted from Fig. 1 to save undue complexity of the drawing. The construction of one of these two likefeed-wheels and its actuating parts is, however, shown in" Fig. 22. One of these feed-wheelsviz., the

onemarked'C -is instrumental in rotating the shaft C to move the work-clamp, to be de-, scribed, while the straight sides of the button-" hole are being stitched, at which time the movementof the shaft is the least, whereas the feed-wheel C 'is instrumental in giving to said shafta further throw at each movement to move the cloth clamp faster While the stitching is being carried on about-the ends or eyes of the buttonhole. I shall specifically describe the actuating mechanism for but one or these feed-wheels, the other beingthe same, and the one which I shall-describe is the one marked 0 (See Fig. 22.) ThewheelO is fast upon the feed-shaft G and has at its peripherya series of ratchet teeth, and at its rear side the said wheel is cut away, so as-to leave a flange 6,which is embraced by a groove in a dog 6 having its fulcrum on a stud 8, carried by an elbow-lever mounted loosely upon the said feed-shaft at the opposite side of the said wheel, the said elbow-lever being acted upon by a spring 0 which normally keeps the stud S pulled toward the right viewing Fig. 12 or to the left viewing Fig. 22, the said spring serving to retract the dog upon the wheel. The dog 6 has an arm 7 (best shown in Figs. 22 and 12,) which when the wheel 0 is to be rotated for making longer stitches about the edge is acted upon bya toe 9 of a lever mounted loosely upon the shaft 0 at one side of the said feed-wheel, said lever having a stud 12 embraced by the eccentric-strap O. The upper end of the dog in this instance of my invention has a stud-screw 10, upon which is pivoted a pawl 12, which engages the ratchet-teeth of the wheel, so that the said wheel is moved not only by the dog gripping its flange 6, but also by the pawl engaging the ratchet-teeth of the wheel, themovement of the pawl keeping the feedingoperation up to its standard efliciency notwithstanding wear of the dog upon the flange. Instead of the particular form of dog, or friction mechanism, as it is ordinarily called in sewing-machines, I may use any other usual or equivalent device'com monl y employed for rotatinga wheel under like circumstances.

The feed-wheel O hereinbefore described as employed for rotating the shaft (l -at its slowest speed while the clamp is being moved to stitch the side edges of a buttonhole, is always in motion, its movement being effected by a dog and paw], as described of the wheel 0 but while the straight sides of the-buttonhole are being stitched the elbow-lever O cooperating with the wheel 0, is locked in a position to hold the dog 6 and pawl 12 for actuating the wheel (Pin the extreme of their effective throw by a projection 66*, (see Fig. 4,) carried bya lever 0 forming part of compound locking means,said projection restraining the movement of the lever 0 so that the wheel 0 may travel freely through the dog 6 its teeth clicking under the pawl 12, said shaft 0 at such time'beingrotated slowly by or through a dog and pawl like the pawl O and pawl 12, but'which cooperates with the Wheel 0 the latter wheel then determining the extent of the throw of the shaft C to space the stitches along the sides of the buttonhole, such stitches being shorter than the stitches about the ends of the buttonhole.

The 10 V01 C having the projection for looking the elbow-lever 0 as described, is pivoted at O and has connected to it at its opposite end a link 0, jointed at its opposite end to one end'of a lever 0, (shown in Fig. l and by dotted lines in Fig. 8,) said lever being pivoted at G on the table-plate A and connected loosely with a stud on a slide-block C having a projection 0 which constitutes locking means to prevent the rotation of the work-clam p and the carrier E, to be described,

plate to slide the clamp.

that sustains it during the time that the side edges of the buttonhole-slit are being stitched.

The table-plate A has a groove that receives a ring or raceway 0 having a circular opening which receives what I have herein designated as the"carrier" E, it forming part of the cloth-clamp. The carrier E has a central space E which receives a plate F of less length than the slot. The under side of the plate has roller or other studs b, which are normallyin contact with the inner heartshaped cam-facev b of a ring D, which is sustained-by-and made revoluble in the table- The plate F sustains at its upper side the cloth-clamp F composed of a base F andsuit'able arms 39,

having members 40 to bear upon the surface of the material to be held in the clamp and impinge the under side of the material against the serrated surface 30, connected with the base F of the clamp, and usual means are employed for moving the arm to stretch the buttonhole-slit after the same has been cut. The base-plate of the clamp, slotted nearone end to embrace loosely a block 28, pivoted on a stud rising from the plate, has a pin b which (see Fig. 9) is extended through a hole b in the plate F, a suitable spring I), connected at one end with said pin and at its opposite end with. the plate, sustaining the clampoperation of overstitching the entire edge of a buttonhole.

The carrier E is retained in operative position by means of a cap-ring C secured by suitable screws to the raceway-plate C said cap-ring being mostly broken away in Fig. 6 to show parts below it.

The raceway-plate C has a notch C in which enters and moves the projection 0 before described, said projection at times being acted upon and pushed backwardly or to the right, Figs. 1 and 6, and at other times the projection enters one or the other notch E or E. v

' A spring C connected with the link C at one end and at its other end with a fixed projection, acts normally to keep the projection C pressed against the edge of the carrier E, and at such time the projection 66 of the lever G releases the dog operated to turn the feed-wheel C to impart faster movement to the feed-shaft C Whenever the projection C enters one of the notches, as E or E the rotative movement of the carrier E and also of the Workclamp is arrested, and the lever C is immelock the means for rotating the wheel 0',

leaving only the wheel 0 in operation, it moving the wheel (3 at a slower speed and turning the ring D, so that the heart-shaped cam 19, acting upon the rollers b of the plate F, carrying the work-clamp, moves the clamp longitudinally. It will therefore be understood that the shaft C is run at two different speeds to actuate the clamp at two different speeds, the slowest speed of the clamp being while the latter is being slid longitudinally in the carrier and while overedge-stitches are being made at the sides of the buttonhole, the movement of the clamp being faster while it and the carrierare being rotated,the overedge-stitching then taking place about the ends of the buttonhole, said stitches radiating about the center of the round end of such hole.

The-clamp during the stitching of each buttonhole is rotated for more than a full rotation, said full rotation of the clamp being partially effected at two different times, one while stitching about the large and the other about the small end of the buttonhole.

The ring D has a projection D, which whenever the clamp is to be rotated while overstitching a buttonhole about its ends meets the projection O and pushes it out of the notch E or E, whichever is engaged, the

spring 0 causing the said projection to enter said notches in succession whenever they arrive opposite the projection, to thus lock and prevent temporarily the further rotation of the carrier and clamp, as while overstitching the side edges of the buttonhole-slit.

The slot b iu the plate F enables the workclamp, guided by the block 25, to be moved longitudinally on the plate F when the clamp is locked in itsposition to receive material to be cut and stitched, such movement of the clamp putting it into its inoperative position-that is, the position it will notoccupy while. the ends of the buttonhole are being stitched-so that the material held-in. the clamp may be brought into the proper relation to the cutting mechanism to be described, which acts to cut the slit in the material, and immediately thereafter the spring b acts to return the cloth-clamp from its inoperative to its starting position. The base F of the work-clamp is broader than the slot E in said carrier E, and said base is kept seated in said carrier by gibs 24, (see Fig. 6,) attached to said carrier and overlapping the edges of said base. One edge of the base F is curved or concaved, as at 25, and said edge is kept pressed against a roller or other stud 26, fixed on the carrier E, by or through the spring b referred to, for the stud 713 is connected with the said base F at the opposite side of its longitudinal center, the said base having its pivotal point upon a block 27,(see Fig. 6,) mounted loosely upon a stud 28, fixed upon the slide F. Whenever the work clamp is moved about the stud 28 in the direction of the arrow 29, Fig. 6, so as to take it away from the roller 26, the spring 12 is stretched. The slot in the base F, in which stands the block 28, is longer than the said block, so that the clamp may slide longitudinally against the spring Z) when a buttonhole is to be cut in the material.

Fig. 10 shows the base F of the workclamp and its under jaws 30, the latter being represented as levers pivoted at 31 and normally pulled toward each other by a suitable spring The base F has a'stand33, from which rise the pivots 31 of these levers, and between the levers is located 'a camsleeve 34,1nounted upon a stud 35, rising from the base F, the said sleeve having an operating-handle 36, so that when the sleeveis turned into the position Fig. 10 the under jaws are spread apart, the other position of the sleeve (turned one-quarter around from the position Fig. 10) allowing the spring 32 to close the jaws. The stand 33 has'pivoted upon it at 37a block 38, (see Fig. 7,) towhich is attached by suitable set-screws the arms 39, having the feet 40, constituting the upper members of the work-clamp, the said arms being spring-arms. The cam-sleeve 34 referred to is also so shaped or is provided with a collar 41 at its upper end, the upper side of said collar being cam-shaped to act against a pin 42 and cause the sleeve to he slid downwardly as it is rotated by its hand-lever 36 in one direction. During this downward motion the under side of the said collar acts on the bridge 43. (Shown separatelyin Fig. 11.) This bridge is connected bya screw 44 with the block 38, and the under side of the bridge is so shaped that by turning the screw in more or less the bridge will be more or less tipped, and the higher the outer or large end of the bridge the greater will be the effective force with which the clamp will hold the goods when the lever 36 is turned to cause the clamp to be closed upon the goods.

The cap-ring C broken away in Fig. 6, together with the raceway C is shown inverted in Fig. 17, and it will be seen that the inner edge 45 of the raceway is a true circle and that the inner edge of the cap-ring 0 is also a true circle; but the circle of the ring is set eccentric to the circle of the raceway, for a purpose to be described.

In the present embodiment of my invention I have found it necessary to cut away a portion of the inner circle of the cap-ring, leaving a shoulder or space, as 47, (see Fig. 17,) chiefly for the reception of a pin 48, attached to the carrier E. (See Fig. 6.)

. The carrier E has pivoted upon it at 52 a pusher 53, which during the rotation of the carrier with the clamp during the stitching of the enlarged eye of the buttonhole acts upon the eccentrically-placed inner edge 45 of the cap-ring C l-thus causing the pusher contacting with a portion of the base of the clamp at m to turn or swing the clamp laterally about the pivot 28, thus changing the position of the edge to be overstitched with relation to the stitch-forming mechanism. that made for the next buttonhole to be made,

said-dog acting as a guide or positioning device to determine the correct position for the clamp when the buttonhole is to be cut and when the stitching is to be commenced.

The ring has a series of inclined worm-like bevel-teeth 62, which are engaged bythe worm-like bevel-teeth of the pinion 63, fast on one end of the feed-shaft C the said pinion rotating the ring D onlyduring the stitching operation. The said shaft 0 near the said gear, has a bearing 64, (see Fig. 13,) mounted loosely in a plumber-box 65, (see also Fig. 1,) the said bearing resting upon a cam 66, (shown by full lines, Fig. 13, and by dotted lines, Fig. 1,) projecting from a short rock-shaft 67, having an arm 68, acted upon by a spring 69, (also shown by full and dotted lines in said figures,) the said spring beingconnected to a lever c and normally holding the said bearing up in the position Fig. 13, to thus keep the said pinion in engagement with the teeth of the ring.

The clutch controlling or shipper rod 0 is provided with a collar 82, acted upon by a suitable spring 83. (See Fig. 1.) One end of the spring abuts against said collar and the other end thereof against the hanger 84, so that said spring normally acts to move the shipper-rod to the right. The shipperrod at its right-hand end has a suitable forked arm 85, (see Fig. 4,) which embraces the bearing-pulley B to move it lo ngitudinally upon the shaft B when it is desired to disengage the clutch-pulley from the shaft to leave it and the stitch-forming mechanism at rest, while the clutch-pulley and the pulley B continue to rotate continuously through the belt 13 The left-hand end, viewing Fig. 4, of the shipper-rod c has jointed to it a bar o (see Fig. 5,) and to the extremity of this bar is jointed a trip 87, pivoted at 88.

The plate A (see Figs. 6 and 21) receives a vertical shaft g, carrying at its upper end a knock-off plate g, (best shown in Figs. 6, 17, and 21,) it having two notches 48 and 48 said plate occupying normally the dottedline position, Figs. 6 and 17, in which position it is held by or through the action of a spring 89, (shown in Figs. 4 and 21,) connected at one end to some fixed part of the frame and at its other end to an arm projecting from the lower end of the shaft g. The shaftg (shown fully in Fig. 21) has a collar 9 upon which is pivoted a spring-pressed latch g Said latch as the shaft g is turned in the direction of the hands of a watch travels up over a stop 90, carried by the bar 0 as shown in Fig. 1 and separately in Fig. 21, the said latch being arrested by said stop when the shaft has been partially rotated, as will be described, by or through the action of a pin 48, (see Fig. 6,) projecting from the carrier E, against the knock-off device g to bring it into its full-line position.

In the operation of overstitching the entire edge of a buttonhole the pin 48 on the carrier E passes the knock-ofi device twice, and were it not for this provision for giving the shaft 9 two movements-or steps to effect one complete movement or result the action of the stitch-forming mechanism would be stopped immediately after the stitching was started to overstitch the edge of a buttonhole; but

stitched, the shaft 9 Will be fully turned.

When the shaft 9 is turned the second time or fully operated by the pin 48, the pawl g strikes a pin or projection 91, rising from a latch 92, (see Fig. 5,) pivoted at 93 and acted upon by a spring 94, and turns said latch in adirection to disengage its hooked end from that end of the lever 87 which is pivoted to the bar ta The spring 83 acts quickly to move the rod 0 to the right to unclutch the pulleys and let the shaft B and the stitch-forming mechanism be stopped. As the rod 0 is moved to the right to unclutch the pulleys and stop the rotation of the main shaft and the action of the stitch-forming mechanism,said rod, through a pin or projection thereon, (see Fig. 4,) standing in a slot in the elbow-lever c,turns said lever so that it releases the tension-spring 69, referred to, and permits the cam 66, sustaining the bearing 64 on the shaft c ,to drop, thus moving the gear 63 out of engagement with the ring cl, so that said ring is free to be moved through the shaft B to be described, to actuate the clamp at a faster speed and place it in starting position, while the main shaft and the feed-shaft 0 remains at rest. During this movement -of the rod 0 to the right the latch 0 connected to the link o acts upon a pin or projection of a pivoted latch 4 (see Figs. 4 and 5) and moves it to release the toe 3 of alever B ,.so that a spring 13 connected therewith, may act to turn said lever and cause its projection 13, acting in the groove of a hub 13 of a sleeve 13*, spliued on the shaft B and having a worm B to put said Worm in engagement with a wormgear a, (see Fig. 14,) secured to a shaft a, having at its upper end a gear or pinion a The movement of the sleeve in the direction stated starts immediately the rotation of the shaft aand causes the pinion to engage a series of teeth 60,1'nade at the interior of'the ring D, (see Fig. 18,) and turn said ring through the moves it at a faster speed than is impartedto the clamp during the overstitching of the edge of a buttonhole. The gear a rotates the ring D backwardly for a greater or less distance, accordingto-the number of' stitches which the overedgestitching used to complete the buttonholeroverlaps the stitching made. when starting the overedge-stitching ofthe buttonhole, and said pinion in its motion soon runs out from the teeth and enters the notch '70 thereof, whereit continues to revolve,without,however, further turning the ring. On the arrival of the ring into its starting position the dog 58 engages the notch E thereof and stops the ring, but the pinion a continues to rotate in the space 70 of the ring D, and were it not for this space it would be impossible to stop the ring and. the clamp when the'latter arrive in startingposition. As the lever B is turned by its spring B, the too 2 of said lever acts on the toe 7 of the lever B" and turns the latter, so that its projection 103 is put within the range of movement of a pin 104, shown as extendedfrom the under side of a link 99, connected with and forming a part of the buttonhole-cutting mechanism, to be described. The main shaft B has also fast upon it a cam G (seeFig. 4,)

which receives a roller orother stud of a lever G pivoted at G4 at the front of the machine, said lever being joined by a connecting-rod G (shown chiefly by dotted lines in Fig. 4 and in section in Fig. 15 andpartially in Fig. 1) to an arm G secured to the shank G of the. loop-spreader G the shank of the said loop-spreader having its bearings in a pivoted yoke G the pivots of the said yoke, as represented in Fig. 1, being pointed screws G Theshaft B has a cam H, (see Fig. 15,) which inthe rotation of the shaft acts against a finger G of and swings the yoke G about its pivotal points, theloop-spreader thereby having given to it a motion bodily laterally,

while the spreader itself is oscillated in the bearings of the yoke to take the loop of upper thread fromthe needle and spread it underneath the material for the entrance of the un-- by one forked endof alever 1H pivoted at- H The shaft B also has upon it a cam H which isembraced,

(see Fig. 14) on an arm ofa tubularstandll, the said stand receiving anion-rotatable rod 11, to the upper end of which is properly socured the throat e, which supports the work directly. under the thrustof the needle, said throat being shown enlarged in Fig. The rod H has a pin H which is embraced by one oftheforked ends of the lever H the said pin being extended outwardly through a slot in the guide 11". The throatis kept elevated and in contact with the material atthe stitching-point, while the upperthread carried-by the needle is'in the material, the work-clamp or work-holder then beingstationary, and it is lowered, .so as to release its pressure or undue friction uponthe under side ofthe materialdurin g the feeding movement of the workclam p, the extent ofrise andifallofthe throat being in practice, but little. ferred to has suitable guide-eyes for conducting a cord or gimp e to be laid under the stitching at the edge of the buttonhole to form a body therein, and this throat has aproject- The throat re-.

while the looper described, carrying the under thread, rises in the space'at the left of the said horn. The shaft B also has an eccentric f, which is embraced by .an' eccentric-strap ff, ball-jointed, as shown in Fig. 1, to an arm f of a rock-shaft), the said rock-shaft having anarm f having jointed to it alink f having at its opposite end a bearing (seeFig. 4) which receives a rod f provided near the said bearing with a suitable block, as 81, upon which is secured, the under-thread carrier-f (shown best in Fig. 19,) the said carrier being supplied with thread from a suitable source and beingacted upon byatension device f Fig. 4:, and by the take-up G referred to. This rodf. has at its opposite ends crank-arms f having journal-pinsf which enter suitable bearings f, suitably secured in or forming part of thebed-plate A so the said rod f is free to beimoved in thearc of a circle struck from substantially the plane in which the cloth or material rests while being stitched, such construction enabling the under curved needle or thread-carrier to travelin the samearc both above and below the edge of the material and obviate lateral or side movement of the carrier while in the slit, said lateralor side movement being objectionable because of straining or fraying the edges of the slitted material and being also objectionable because of producing; friction upon the needle and upon its thread, thussometimes obstructing the correct formation of the loop of under thread tobe left by it above the material for the entrance of the needle.

connected therewith by a screw 98 a bar 95, havinga cam projection 96 and a dog 97. (See Figs. Sand 20.) The bar 99 is jointed at one end to an arm 100 of a rock-shaft 101, supported-in suitable bearings and having an overhanging arm 102, provided at:its outer end with a suitable cutter 103, forming one IIO The bar99has member of a buttonhole-cutting device. As

the bar 99 moves in the direction of the arrow the material, a suitable spring, as 71*, (see dotted lines, Fig. 1,) acting normally to lower the anvil when the cam bar and link are moved in the direction opposite said arrow, Fig. 5.

Assuming that the clamp is in its starting position and locked by the dog 58, the operator will put the material in the clamp and turn the lever or handle 36 to clamp the material firmly, straining it transversely with relation to what is to be the length of the buttonhole. The operator then by hand pushes the clamp in a direction to slide the same over a guide or block 27, mounted loosely on a stud 28, moving the clamp against the stress of the spring 19 such movement of the clamp putting it in proper position for the cutting mechanism to act to cut a buttonhole.

The rock-shaft 101. has a backwardly-extended arm 10G. (Shown in Fig. 4 and partially in Fig. 24:.) This arm has attached to it a link 107, which is extended down over the edge of or below the bench 108, upon which the machine is supposed to rest when in operation, the said link being connected to a crank-pin of a disk 109, fast on a shaft 110, supported in suitable hangers 112 below the bench, the said shaft having loose upon it a pulley 113 and fast upon it at the side of the pulley 113 a tight pulley 114. The belt 115, driven from any suitable pulley 116 on any suitable counter-shaft 117, is embraced by lugs or projections of a belt-shipper 118, acted upon by a spring 119, which normally keeps the belt upon theloose pulley, which causes a projection 120 of thebelt-shipper to enter a notch in and lock the pulley 114, so that the said pulley can make but one rotation, it starting after the locking device 120 has been withdrawn from the tight pulley and rotating untilthe notch again comes opposite the looking device, when the latter quickly enters it by or through the action of the spring 119.

To start the cutting mechanism in operation, I have provided a lever 121, having a spring-controlled dog 122 and acted upon by a rod 123, supposed to be connected at its lower end with some suitable treadle (not shown) located at the floor, a spring 124 normally acting to keep the lever 121 in the position shown in Fig. 24, and to actuate the cutting mechanism the operator will put his foot upon a suitable treadle, (not shown,) supposed to be connected with the rod 123, and

will turn the lever 121, causing the dog 122 carried thereby to act upon the pin 130 of the shipper 118 and ship the belt 115 from the loose pulley 113 onto the fast pulley 11 1, thus starting the same and with it the shaft '110. The shaft 110 is connected by link 107 with the end of a lever 106, connected with shaft 101, with which is secured the arm 102, provided with one member 103 of the buttonholecutter, and the shaft 110 in its first rotation locks the shaft 101, causing an arm 100, attached thereto and connected with a link 99, to withdraw said link in the direction of the arrow 400, (see Fig. 5,) causing a cam 96, connected with the bar 95, joined at 98 to the link 99, to act on and lift the anvil it into its operativeposition in contact with the under side of the material below the open central part of the work-clamp. During this movement of the bar 95 the pin 101 on the link 99 meets the toe 103 of the lever B", turning it so that the portion 7 thereof will act against the portion 2 of the lever B and move the same in the direction to withdraw the Worm B from contact with the worm-gear a thus stopping instantly the rotation of the shaft a. 1n the continued movement of the rock-shaft the cutter 103 descends between the members of the work-clamp, meets the material therein, and cuts the same lyingon the anvil. This done the shaft 110 in its further rotation imparts to the rock-shaft 101 a reverse movement, causing the cutter member 103 to rise and slide the link 99 and bar 95 in'a direction opposite to arrow 400. During the movement of the bar 95 in this direction the pivoted dog 97, which trailed over the trip 87 while the link 99 was being moved in the direction of the arrow 400, meets the end of the trip 87 and moves the same in the direction to cause the shipper-rod c to be moved to the left, viewing Figs. 1 and 4:, to thus effect the clutching of the pulley B with and so as to start into operation the shaft B and the stitch-forming mechanism. The movement of the shipper-rod to the left, as suggested, also moves the lever c and puts sufficient tension on the spring 69 to turn the cam 66 and raise the bearing 64 and the shaft (3 therein, putting the shaft in engagement with the clamp-moving ring D, which immediately assumes the control of said ring and clamp for stitching a buttonhole. In this way it will be seen that the return of the cutting mechanism into its inoperative position automat ically starts the stitch-forming mechanism into operation. The trip 87 therefore becomes a lever, which is automatically controlled, it being moved in one direction when released by the latch 92 by a spring to instantly stop the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, said lever being moved in a direction opposite that by which it is moved by said spring, as described, to start into operation the stitch-forming mechanism.

This invention is not intended to be limited to the exact construction of the clutch mechanism for determining the rotation or the exact periods of rotation and of rest of the main shaft, and it is also obvious that the shape of many of the parts shown maybe variously modified without departing from this invention.

Before commencing to describe the action of the stitch-forming mechanism and workclamp in the stitching of a buttonhole I will IOC IIf

erative to effect the next stitch, and that feed-wheel will continue to control the movement of the work-clamp during the circular movement of the clamp or while the stitching is being carried from 200 to 201, and then the feed-wheel G will be thrown out of operation, letting the feed-Wheel C control the intermitting movement of the shaft C while are made around the small end of the but-' tonhole-slit fron1 202 to 203, as represented by dotted lines, and then the feed-wheel 0 again controls the movement of the clamp while the overstitching is carried on along the straight side from 203 to 204: and along the diagonal edge from 204 to 205, and on the arrival of the stitching at 205 the feedwheel O is again made to control the movement of the cloth-clamp while the stitching is carried about the circular part of the large eye from 205 to 206, the stitching terminating at a point between 200 and 201, so that the last stitch made in the formation of the buttonhole overlaps overedge stitching made at the starting of the buttonhole, thereby binding the buttonhole completely about its edge.

Having described the class of buttonhole which is to be made herein, I will now particularly describe the operation of the parts.

Figs. 1, 4, 5, 6, and 8 of the drawings show the parts in the position they will occupy when the machine has made some stitches about the enlarged eye of the buttonhole. To stitch a buttonhole, let it be assumed that the machine is at rest, with the work-clamp locked by its dog 58 and open, that the operator may put the material into the clamp, which done he turns the lever or handle 36 to clamp the material, and during this opera-' tion he strains the material transversely with relation to what is to be the length of the buttonhole. Thebuttonholehavingbeen cut,

the operator releases the clamp, letting the spring 12 return it into its normal position. The cutting mechanism having been operated, on its return to its normal position starts the machine into operation, as will be hereinafter described, and the carrier E is started and the stitching is commenced at 200, the car-' rier deriving its movement through the action of thelug 5r upon the pin 23 of the dog E, the ring D being at such time driven by the toothed feed-wheel O to give the longestspacing to the stitches about the circular part of the eye of the buttonhole. During the time that the stitching is to be carried on from the point 200 to 201 in order to insure the stitching on the curved part of the inner edge of the eye the clamp has to be swung aboutthe pivot 28, and to do this the pusher 53, which at the same time rests against the straight portionm of the edge of the cla mp and travels against the eccentrically-located edge of the cap-ring, moves the pusher toward the needle-bar, causing it to swing the clamp about the pivot 28, the swinging movement being continued practically until in the rotation of the clamp the notch E of the carrier E comes opposite the projection C this happeningjust as the stitching arrives at the point 201. The projection 0 under the action of the spring 0 immediately restrainsthe further rotation of'the carrier E and locks out of operation the feed-Wheel C for making thelongest stitches, leaving the feed-wheel G which makes the shortest stitches, to control the movement of the shaft 0 which actuates the gear D. When the carrier is first locked and restrained fromrotation by the engagement of the projection G with a notch E, the pusher occupies a position between said projection C and the carrier and the pusher yet engages the straight surface m of thecarrier, and the carrier having been locked the ring D in its further rotation with pin 22 of the dog E then running in the groove 51 of the ring enables the cam-surface b of the ring to act upon the studs 1) of the base f of the clothclamp and slide the cloth-clamp longitudinally in the carrier. At the commencement of this sliding movement the stitch-forming mechanism operates at the point 201 and the pusher yet stands in pushing engagement with and a lateral movement of the clamp, enabling the stitching to follow along the inclined part of the eye from 201 to 201 On the arrival of the stitching at the point 201 the roller 26, mounted on the carrier E, contacts with the straight edge m of the clamp, so that thereafter during the stitching of the buttonhole from 201 to 202 the movement of the clamp is only in a straight line. The stitching having arrived at 202, the projection D of the ring D strikes the projection 0 thus releasing the carrier'E, that it may be rotated while the stitching is carried about the small end .of the buttonhole from 202 to 203, the movement of the projection 0 again causing the locking device 0 to release the lever 0 that IIO it may actuate the toothed wheel 0 for the a longer stitches aboutthe small end of the eye; To efiect this rotation of the carrier and clamp while stitching from 202 to 203, the projection 54 of the ring D picks up and engages the pin 23 of the dog E and on the arrival of the pin 23 opposite the notch the heel of the dog enters the notch 125 and lets the pin 23 pass to one side, so that the projection 54 may leave that dog and contact at the proper time with the pin 22 of the dog E when the carrier is to be again rotated. The dog E rests only momentarily in the notch 125, for the reason that in the further movement of the ring D the point 131 thereof immediately meets the pin 23 and causes the same to again enter the groove 51. As the projection 54 disengages itself from the pin 23 of the dog E the projection C is again made to enter a notch in the carrier, the notch entered this time being the notch E opposite the notch E. As soon as the projection C enters the notch E the carrier is restrained and the sliding movement of the cloth-clamp in the opposite direction is commenced again by the action of the cam-face b of the ring D. When starting to move the cloth-clamp in the direction to stitch from the point 203 to 204, the roller 26, referred to, occupies a position in contact with the straight part m of the clamp and the pusher 53 is inactive. As the ring D moves the work-clamp in a direction opposite the arrow m, Fig. 6, and while the straight edge m of the clamp contacts with the stud 26 the straight side of the buttonhole is stitched from 203 to 204, and then to provide for stitching the inclined part of the eye from 204 to 205 the cam m at the edge of the clamp again comes into operation, or, in other words, that edge .of the clamp is made to contact progressively with the roller 26 under the action of the spring 6 which gradually swings the clamp in the direction opposite the arrow 29, Fig. 6, and on the arrival of the stitching at the point 205 the pusher meets the straight projection m of the clamp, and the projection D of the ring D meets and moves the projection C to release the carrier,andthe projection 54,which has been inactive during the running of the ring while the clamp was being slid longitudinally, comes into position and engages the projection 22 of the dog E and again starts the rotation of the carrier, it rotating the clamp, and during this rotation of the carrier the pusher meets the eccentrically-located edge of the cap-ring, which swings the clamp about the stud 28 while the stitching of the circular large end of the eye is carried on from 205 to 206.

In the operation of stitching a buttonhole the under needle or thread-carrier carrying the under or second thread will rise through the slit cut by the cutting mechanism and pass over the edge of the material, presenting a loop of its thread at the upper side of the material, and the needle carrying the upper thread will descend through the loop of under thread held above the material and will penetrate the material back from its edge for the distance desired for the depth-stitch, the under-thread carrier in the meantime descending or moving back through the slit to the under side of the material, leaving a loop of under thread about the shank of the needle. The needle having passed below the material sufficiently to form a loop in its thread, the loop-spreader G8 takes the loop of needle-thread and carries it across the buttonhole-slit, opening the loop of needlethread in the path of movement of the underthread carrier,so that as the latter again rises it will pass through the spread or opened loop of needle-thread. During the operation of spreading the loop of needle-thread the needle-bar is made to rise rapidly, so that it gets out of the way of the under-thread carrier as the latter rises through the spread or opened loop of needle-thread, said carrier again presenting its thread above the material, as before, to be engaged by the needle at its next descent. During this operation of stitching, the gimp or cord e is laid upon the edge of the material andis inclosed between the loops of the two threads referred to, all in usual manner, the stitch made being one commonly produced in buttonhole-sewing machines. During the stitching of the small endof'the buttonhole-slit the carrier is turned for adistance of substantially one hundred and eighty degrees; but the sum of the two circular movements of the clamp and the carrier instrumental in stitching the large part of the eye rotate the clamp for a distance greater than one hundred and eighty degrees. During the partial rotation of the carrier while stitching from 200 to 201 the pin 48 of the carrier 47 acted upon the knock-01f g, it entering the recess 48 thereof, and turns the knock-off from its dotted-line position, Fig. 6, into its full-line position, thus carrying the latch 9 past the stop 90. The stitching having been carried to about the point 206, the projection 48 in the rotation of the carrier E strikes for the second time the knock-off g, it entering the notch 48 and turning the shaft G far enough to cause its pawl or projection g to strike the pin 91 and cause the latch 92 to release the lever 87, so that the spring 83, operating on the rod 0, may move the latter in the direction to cause the latch e acting on a pin of the latch 4, to release the toe 3 of the lever B so that the spring B may immediately slide the collar 13 up and put the worm B into engagement with the worm a on the shaft to, so that the pinion a in engagement with the teeth of the ring D will be immediately made to turn the said ringD at a faster speed and by a substantially continuous motion backwardly or in the direction opposite that in which it has been previously rotated; but just before the said pinion a commences to reverse the rotation of the said ring the stress of the spring 69 is released, as before stated, thus permitting the shaft 0 to drop and disengage the teeth of the gear 63 from the teeth 62 of the ring D.

It will be remembered that the shaft B is rotated continuously, even when the stitchforming mechanism is at rest.

The ring D is provided with two projections IIO 55 56, one of which comes into operation during its reverse movement, said ring as it is reversed catching a bevel-pin 7t,(S66 Fig. 9,) carried, preferably,by aspring 141,the spring being employed and the projection being beveled, so that when the ring works in the opposite'direction the projection 55 or 56 will not become effective. WVhen the ring D has been brought back into its starting position, the dog 58 enters the notch E, thus preventing the overrunning of the ring or its movement beyond that point due to momentum.

' Viewing Fig. 6, it will be seen that the notch E is just in advance of the said dog 58, as it was assumed in starting that said figure showed that a few stitches had been made in the circular large end of the buttonhole. It will be noticed that the main shaft B and the needle-bar-operating shaft are rotated positively and in unison atexactly the same speed by the chain, the employment for such purpose of a chain cooperating with sprocketwheels on the said shafts insuring accurate timing of the two shafts, more correct timing than can be given by any other mechanical means known to me without the expenditure of a large amount of friction and at a greater cost in mechanical appliances. This chain is alsoof the greatest possible advantage in a machine run at high speed, for the ordinary jar due to the employment of ordinary cranks and links employed to connect a lower shaft with a needle-bar shaft is entirely done away with, and the machine may be run at high speed with less power and less vibration and with less noise. In fact, the chain is substantially noiseless and is very durable.

I am aware that a sprocket-chain has been employed in many different classes of machines to rotate two shafts; but in the present instance the chain is productive of great advantages, and its combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine produces a very much improved machine.

I am aware that an under-thread-carrying looper adapted to be moved from below up through the buttonhole-slit has been carried by an arm pivoted on a horizontal pivot located slightly below the under side of the bedplate of the machine, on which rests and moves the cloth-clamp; but in this my invention the pivotal points about which the looper vibrates are located substantiallyin the plane occupied by the cloth or material being stitched, and this peculiar location of, the pivots obviates the lateral pushing or straining of the buttonhole-slit, which in my judgment would be quite injurious in case the pivotal points were located below the clothplate or bed of the machine.

connecting the carrier for the looper with a rod or shaft having bearings at both ends it is possible to get a much steadier movement than could be gained if the said shaft was supported only at one end.

Having fully described my invention, what Further, by

I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eye-pointednieedle, and complemental means cooperating therewith to form a series of overedge stitches, a work-clam p to hold the material having the slit to be overstitched entirely about its edge, means to change automatically the relative positions of said workclamp and stitch-forming mechanism, whereby overedge-stitches are made at both ends of the buttonhole-slit and at both sides thereof, the overedge-stitching which completes the stitching of the buttonhole overlapping overedge-stitching made when starting the but of,the overedge-stitchin g which completes the stitching of the buttonhole, overlapping overedge -stitches made when starting the buttonhole and means to stop automatically the stitch-formin g mechanism when the buttonhole has been completed by the overlapping of the overedge-stitching.

3. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-formin g mechanism comprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, and complemental means cooperating therewith to form a series of overedge-stitches, a work-clamp to hold the material having the slit to be overstitched entirely about its edge, means to change antomatically the relative positions of said workclamp and stitch-forming mechanism, whereby overedge-stitches are made at both ends of the buttonhole-slit and at both sides thereof, the overedge-stitching which completes the buttonhole overlapping overedge -stitching made when starting the buttonhole, means to stop automatically the stitch-forming mechanism after the overedge-stitching has been overlapped, and means to thereafter continue to further change the relative positions of the work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism at a faster speed than when overedge-stitching is being done and while the needle of the stitchforming mechanism is out of the work, to lo- 1 cate the clamp in the position it must occupy for the removal of the material therefrom containin g the buttonhole.

4. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism consisting of a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, and complemental means cooperating therewith to form a series of overedge-stitches, a work-clamp to hold the material having the slit to be overstitched entirely about its edge, means to change the relative positions of said workclamp and stitch-formingmechanism whereby both ends of the buttonhole-slit, one end having an-enlarged eye, and the sides of the slit may be overstitched, the overedge-stitching which completes the bottonhole overlapping the stitching made when starting the buttonhole, and means to cut the material held in the clamp preparatory to stitching the same.

5. In a sewing-machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, and complemental means coacting therewith to form a series of overedge-stitches, a workclamp to hold the material having the slit to be overstitched, means to partially rotate the work-clamp while overstitching each end of a buttonhole, said partial rotations being in the aggregate more than a full-rotation during the stitching of each buttonhole, whereby the overedge-stitching which completes the buttonhole is made to overlap overedge-stitching made to startthe buttonhole.

6. Asewing-machine containing thefollowing instrumentalities, viz: stitch forming mechanism comprehending an eye-pointed needle and an under-thread-carrying looper, means to actuate the same to form overedgestitches, a work-clamp to hold the material, a carrier to sustain said clamp, means to move said clamplongitudinally in said carrier while the side edges of the buttonhole are being stitched, and means to partially rotate said carrier and work-clamp while overstitching each end of a buttonhole, said partial rotations being for more than a full rotation during the stitching of each buttonhole, whereby the overedge-stitching which completes the buttonhole is made to overlap overedgestitching made to start the buttonhole.

'7. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, a work-clamp, stitch-forming mechanism, and means to change the relative positions of said clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to enable overedge-stitches to be made entirely about the edge of the buttonhole, the last of the overedge-stitching overlapping the overedge-stitching made at'the point where the stitching was commenced.

8. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism consisting of a needle to penetrate the material, and complemental means coacting therewith to form a series of overedgestitches, a work-clamp, means to slide the work clamp while the stitch-forming mechanism makes a series of overedge-stitches along the sides of the buttonhole, means to change the relative positions of the work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism rotatively while the stitch-forming mechanism is operating to make a series of overedge-stitches radiating about both ends of the buttonhole, the stitching that completes the overedge-stitching of the buttonhole overlapping overedge stitching made when the stitching of the buttonhole was commenced.

9. In a machine for sewing buttonholes, overedge-stitch-forming mechanism, a carrier, a plate slidably mounted therein, a workclamp pivoted on said plate, means to engage said carrier a plurality of times to eifect a partial rotary movement of said carrier and clamp during the overstitching of both ends of a huttonhole, means to slide said clampin said carrier between partial rotations of the carrier, and means to swing said clamp on said plate during the time that the large eye of the buttonhole is being overstitched.

10. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eyepointed needle to penetrate the material, and complemental means coacting therewith to form a series of overedge-stitches, a workclamp to contain the material having the buttonhole the edge of which is to be overstitched, means to change the relative position of said work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism while a series of overedge-stitches is being made along both sides of and about both ends of the buttonhole-slit, means to stop the action of the stitch-forming mechanism when the buttonhole has been overstitched, and means to thereafter move the work-clamp at a faster speed to place said clamp in-the position from which it was started when the overstitching of the edge of the buttonholo was begun.

11. In a machine for stitching material, stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eyepointed needle to penetrate the material, and complemental means coacting therewith to form a series of overedge-stitches, means to clamp the material having the edge to be overstitched, and means to change the relative position of the said work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism for a cycle of movements, and means to stop the action of the stitch-forming mechanism at the completion of the cycle of movement, the stitch-forming mechanism during each cycle of movement overstitching the beginning of the line of stitching before said stopping mechanism acts.

12. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eyepointed needle to penetrate the material back of the edge of the slittherein, and complemental means working through said slit and coacting with the eye-pointed needle to form a series of overedge-stitches, a work-clamp, means to change the relative position of said work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism at one speed while overstitching the side edges of a huttonhole-slit, means to change the relative position of said parts at a faster speed while stitching both ends of the buttonholeslit, means to stop the stitching action of the stitch forming mechanism, and means to thereafter continue said rotative change of position of said work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism at a yet faster speed while the stitching action is suspended to thereby put the work-clamp in its starting position for change of material therein.

13. In a machine for stitching buttonholcs, overedge-stitch-forming mechanism, a workclamp, a plate upon which said work-clamp is pivotally mounted, means to move said work-clamp longitudinally while stitching the sides of a buttonhole, means to rotate said of the buttonhole, and means to swing said clamp on said plate while stitching about the large eye of the buttonhole, and while the stitching at the sides of the buttonhole is approaching and leaving said large eye.

14. Inasewing-machine,for sewing buttonholes, overedge-stitch-forming mechanism a carrier, a plate, a work-clamp mounted on said plate and free to he slid longitudinally in said carrier, a pusher, means to rotate said carrier andslide said plate therein at intervals, and a ring having an eccentric inner edge to act upon said pusher to swing the work-clamp on said plate while stitching about the eye of a buttonhole.

15. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,aworkclamp having at one edge straight and concaved portions, a plate having a pivot to sustain the work-clamp, a spring connecting said plate and clamp, and a carrier slotted to receive and guide the plate upon which the work-clamp is niounted,said carrier being pro vided with a stud against which the straight and concaved portions of said clamp act while stitching the sides of a buttonhole near the enlarged eye at one end thereof.

16. In a machine for sewiugbuttonholes, a rotatable carrier slotted centrally and provided at one side of said slot with a stud, a

plate entering the slotof the carrier, and hav ing pivoted upon it a work-clamp provided with a cam-shaped edge, means to move said plate and clamp in said carrier, a spring to keep the cam-shaped edge of the work-clamp stitched, means to partially rotate said clamp when the buttonhole-stitchingis commenced, means to thereafter restrain the rotation of said clamp and slide the same in the direction of the length of the buttonhole when one side of the buttonhole is being stitched, means to again partially rotate the clamp while one end of thebuttonhole is being stitched, and again move the clamp in the direction of the length of the buttonhole while the opposite side edge of the hole is being stitched, and again impart circular movement to the workclamp in the same direction while the end of.

the buttonhole at which the stitching was started is completely stitched around to a point beyond the point where the stitching was started.

18. In a buttonhole stitching machine, stitch-forming mechanism to form a series of overedge-stitches, a WOIlGClELlDD to hold the material having the buttonhole to be overstitched,a clam p-actuating ring provided with a series of teeth, a shaft having a toothed gear to engage the teeth of said ring to move the same during the overstitching of the edge of tho buttonhole, and means to uncouple said gear from the teeth of said ring when the overstitching of the buttonhole has been carried completely about the edge thereof.

19. In a buttonhole stitching machine, stitch-forming mechanism to form a series of overedge-stitches, a work-clamp to hold the material having the buttonhole to be overst.itched,a clamp-actuating ring provided with a series of teeth, a shaft having a toothedgear to engage the teeth of said ring to movo the same during the overstitching of the edge of the buttonhole, means to uncouple said gear from the teeth of said ring when the overstitching of the buttonhole has been carried completely about the edge thereof, and means .to engage said ring and movethe same that it may carry the clamp holding the stitched buttonhole into position to receive the material.

20. In a buttonhole stitching machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp occupying normally a starting position, means to turn said clamp in one direction while overstitchinga buttonhole, a carrier for said clamp, a toothed ring, a shaft having a pinion adapted to engage said toothed ring and having a worm-gear, combined with a shaft having a worm, devices to cause said worm to engage said worm-gear and rotate the shaft upon which it is mounted toturn backwardly said toothed ring and return the work-clamp .into its starting position, and means to thereafter disengage said worm from said gear and leave said shaft atrest with the clamp in its starting position.

21. In a buttonhole-sewingmachine, a

work-clamp, a toothed ring to move said clamp while stitching a buttonhole, said ring having a series of inner teeth, a shaft having a pinion to engage said teeth, and a worm-toothed gear, said pinion and shaft occupying their inoperative position while stitching a buttonhole, a sleeve having a worm, and means to automatically move said sleeve that its worm .may engage the said worm-gear and rotate .said shaft and pinion that it may rotate the said toothed ring backwardly and cause-it to return the work-clamp into its starting position.

and-moved by the ring during the stitching of a buttonhole, means to disengage the teeth of the bevel-gear from the bevel-teeth of said ring after stitching a buttonhole, and devices to thereafter automatically engage and rotate the shaft carrying the said pinion in a direction to reverse the movement of said toothed ring, together with said carrier and workclamp to bring the clamp into its normal starting position after the completion of a buttonhole.

24. In a sewing-machine for stitching buttonholes, the following instrumentalities, viz: stitch-forming mechanism, a rotating workclamp actuating-ring provided with a series of teeth, a work-clamp, and carrier, a rotating shaft and gear to engage the teeth of said ring and rotate it forwardly while a buttonhole is being stitched, a series of internal teeth also made in said ring, a rotating shaft provided with a pinion to engage said internal teeth to put the clamp into its starting position.

25. In a sewing-machine for stitching buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism, a workclamp, a carrier in which it is mounted to slide, a toothed ring, a shaft to actuate said ring to move said carrier and clamp during the stitching of a buttonhole, means to stop the stitch-forming mechanism when the entire edge of the buttonhole has been overstitched, a clutch on said shaft containing as part thereof a continuously-rnnning pulley, a second shaft driven from said continuouslyrnnning pulley when the shaft operating said Work-clamp and its carrier is at rest, and actuating means between said second shaft and said-toothed ring to further turn said ring to place the work-clamp in its starting position while the stitch-forming mechanism is at rest.

26. In a machine for stitching buttonholes,

. stitch-forming mechanism to form overedgeto engage one after the other the notches or projections of the carrier to restrain its rotation while the straight sidesof the buttonhole are being stitched; a toothed ring having a projection; a shaft having an attached gear to rotate said ring; means to move said shaft at two different rates of speed while stitching a buttonhole, the said shaft having its slower speed while the sides of the buttonhole are being stitched the projection of said ring meeting said holding means and putting out of operation the slower shaft-moving means after stitching each side of a buttonhole letting the faster-moving means come into operation while the rounded ends of the buttonhole are being stitched.

28. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, a work-clamp, buttonhole cutting mechanism, and stitch-forming mechanism; combined with means controlled by said cutting mechanism to automatically start the stitchforming mechanism into operation after the cutter has been actuated to do its work.

29. In a machine for sewing buttonholes, a work-clamp, buttonhole cutting mechanism to cut a buttonhole and remove a portion of the material to leave an enlarged eye at one end of the hole, stitch-forming mechanism, and means to change the relative positions of said clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to enable overcdge-stitches to be made entirely about the edge of the buttonhole, the last of the overedge-stitching overlapping the overedge-stitching made at the point where the stitching was commenced.

30. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, a work-clamp, buttonhole-cutting mechanism to cut a buttonhole in the material held in the clamp, stitchforming mechanism, means to change the relative positions of said clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to enable overedge-stitches to be made entirely about the edge of the buttonhole, the last of the overedge-stitchingoverlapping the overedge-stitching made at the point where the stitching was commenced, and means to stop the stitch-forming mechanism when the overedge-stitching has been overlapped.

31. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, a work-clamp, bnttonhole-cuttin g mechanism to cut a buttonhole in the material held in the clamp, stitch-forming mechanism, means to change the relative positions of said clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to enable radiating overedge-stitches to be made entirely about the edge of the buttonhole, means to stop the stitch-forming mechanism when the entire edge of the buttonhole including its sides and both ends have been overstitched by radiatingstitches, and means to thereafter further move relatively the clamp and stitch-forming mechanism while the latter is inoperative to place the clamp in starting position ready for the stitching of another buttonhole.

32. In a machine for stitching buttonholes, a work-clamp, buttonhole-cutting mechanism 

